You may also have to order others. update: I decided against the continuous exterior insulation (detailing too complicated for my time frame/attention span/budget). But what if you need help from a professional? I was planning on a 4 3/4" fastenmaster headlok screw but they seem to only make a 4 1/2" and 6" screw (2" stud imbedment + 2" for insulation + 3/4" furring = 4 3/4" ). Perhaps off topic but since you want to install vertically and already have a cedar outbuilding (a beautiful choice for your environment) have you considered Cedar siding in Shou Sugi Ban finish? It has no mold that one could visually see. "}},{"@type":"Question","name":"How is spacing for board and batten siding calculated? Did you do this? This what I am planning: I will be using 3" EPS, on top of tyvec covered sheathing, on top of 2x4 framing on my home reno project. Not sure how to make that happen without putting information on this forum. Multiply the number of battens by the batten width to get the total batten width. Fortunately, the process of installing board and batten siding is not too difficult for those who have some experience in home construction. With that you can nail up the siding directly through the foam. The big problem is finding a trim nailer that likes going through that much cement board without pre-drilling. Add 1 to that number to get the number of battens on the wall.
Also this: The question I have for you first is what fasteners? It is well over 100 years old and is doing fine. When you finish on all sides of your house, you can finish the look with two adjoining pieces of trim along each corner. {"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"FAQPage","mainEntity":[{"@type":"Question","name":"Is board and batten siding easy to install? I'm piecing all the elements together slowly. Rigid mineral wool is somewhat squishy.
","acceptedAnswer":{"@type":"Answer","text":"After the top trim is installed, its time to attach the battens. When would you like this request to be completed? I'd call their tech support and ask for clarification and reasoning. Thanks. The purpose of the rain screen gap is so that it dries out. If youre using thin, lightweight lumber, you wont need to stress about it.
The screws to secure the furring strips through the 1.5 inches of rockwool are fancy and long fasteners (1.5+1.75+1 = 4.25 inches min). Akos hit on the key point here. Their strapping min.
"}},{"@type":"Question","name":"Can plywood be used for board and batten siding?","acceptedAnswer":{"@type":"Answer","text":"Yes! Therefore they use a 1x4 furring strip. This type of siding is best described as wide boards that are vertically installed with narrow battens fastened over the gaps between the boards. Keep reading for board and batten installation tips: By following these tips, youll not only make your life a little bit easier, but youll also help your siding remain in better condition for a longer period of time.
Let me know if you want to connect! Apparently he saw someone char the lower portion of plywood sheathing to prevent rot, and the plywood lasted 20 years (usually the first part to fail). While I'm sure I could break a panel, I'm equally sure I'd injure myself doing it.
We nailed it to vertical 1x3 furring strips, 16 O.C. Scrape away old caulking around the doors and windows. This should let you install most of their products over 1.5" thick furring. It is the water you can work on to control the most easily in your application by ventilation, better rain screen, better flashing above the wood to handle bulk water ect. Sort of a modern look. I live in Vermont. I would love to chat more offline about our projects since they seem to be in similar climates and similar material choices. Hardie and the like are sort of floppy, are they not? Even though we try for perfection, there is no perfect building. Board and batten can appear rustic or modern, depending on its finish and how rough the lumber is. This style of siding also offers plenty of other advantages. and our manager will contact you shortly. This method is just one way to approach wood (especially cedar, fir and pine.) Between furring strips and through mineral wool to the framing first? https://hammerandhand.com/best-practices/manual/. Paint or stain your board and battens if they arent colored already. In the northwest we deal with a ton of moisture but also increased threat of fire in our longer hotter summers. I sided the shed in beveled cedar clapboards (included a rainscreen detail). I love how it looks, but it seems that the most pragmatic choice for my upcoming house is hardie board siding for both durability and fire resistance. align your screws vertically in the strapping so that when you string the wall for straitness its easier to adjust (shims help keep the strapping out when needed) it is finicky but it works. https://www.jlconline.com/how-to/exteriors/common-siding-failures_o. Its possible to use pine for board and batten siding, but its typically not recommended. You might have some of them lying around, but you can probably purchase the rest at a local hardware store. Hi Mountain Cabin, If you cant find a wall stud, use wood glue/liquid nails and a nail thats long enough to secure the wood to the wall. Wear a mask and keep pets and children away from it. First, place the batten over the space between the boards. page 17 shows Fastener tables and minimum strapping size for foam vs. mineral wool per different cladding weights. If I was building a single story house, I wouldn't hesitate to do it again. And it can also be completed by beginners with the proper planning. Mountain Cabin, where did you source the window bucks, or did you make them yourself? They are designed to stop bulk-water intrusions, but allow water-vapour to pass through. It was striking from a distance and even better as one got closer. Your thoughts would be most welcome.
I am not talking about the depth of the siding fastener but the fastener to hold the furring strip. Youre done! We kind of did things out of order with our windows. What wood species are your 1x4s?
","acceptedAnswer":{"@type":"Answer","text":"Yes, board and batten siding is relatively easy to install for those with experience in construction. Close wall ASAP. When it comes to the windows, measure and cut your boards to the size that will fit above and below them. ","acceptedAnswer":{"@type":"Answer","text":"The board size arrangements that can be used for board and batten siding include 1x10 boards with 1x2 or 1x3 battens as well as 1x8 or 1x12 boards with 1x4 battens. Butthat's a lot of ripping! says 3/8 x 2 1/2". When one builds the first thing one learns is there are a lot of trade offs!
There's an equation in both links I sent, even the hardie one, which talks about furring fastener length and how to arrive at it. I'll try to get a picture of it, in case it's not being done elsewhere. There may be some significant cost savings over paying for the Hardie name. Hardy-Panels with Hardi-trim on a rain-screen, all at 16"oc. Hardie markets their Reveal system which is a flashing/reveal gap system that sounds like what you're talking about, but I have no idea if it's a commercial-only product with a high price tag. The complete source for building, designing, and remodeling green homes. I guess I don't have a sense yet whether nailing onto a 1.75" wide strip would be a challenge. This is fire/insect/rot resistant and lasts an incredible long time. Its beauty gives homes and cabins a type of rustic charm, its design is durable and proven to last, and along with its ease of installation, its also easy to repair. If you want a rain screen you can use either thin strips of 3/8 ply as spacers or one of the drainage mat (ie Slicker Classic).
Adding a layer of Mineral Wool "boards" as exterior insulation/fire protection might also provide a drainage surface given its porous composition under furring strips. On the exterior of the EPS I am planning 1x4 furring on 16"c. Hardieboard Prevail panels 'Installation Requirement' sheet calls for a 'water resistive barrier' on the outside of the EPS below the furing strips. First, place the batten over the space between the boards. EverGuard thermoplastic polyolefin (TPO), Stainless-steel or galvanized siding nails. BTW cedar would cost me 3x as much as hardie, for siding, per my rough estimate. I made the suggestion about this finish only because of an outbuilding already cladded with cedar. Hi Mountain Cabin. That may shed some light about whether it's a coordinated system (like Hardie Reveal) or not. for what its worth i tried the allure panels (just once) in a soffit situation and did not feel they were as strong as hardie - they sagged a bit. Yes, board and batten siding is relatively easy to install for those with experience in construction. I am in Eastern WA and this summer am planning to do 2" mineral wool with a rainscreen detail (1x4") with hardie panel with batten strips 16 OC. Serendipitously Eric Whetzel linked to his experience with Shou Sugi Ban today in another thread. The thing that bothers me about this is that the horizontal furring strips ruin the rainscreen effect behind the boards. I have an air gap but water could potentially collect and sit on the furring strips instead of running out of the wall cavity, right? Surely the barrier will trap moisture within the EPS and not allow for vapour movement to the outside wall? Before you begin with your DIY board and batten siding installation, make sure you know how the entire process works. There shouldn't be any issue using foam behind the rain screen. Not knowing your specific problem I cant even surmise how to advise and be of help. Messes with reproductive capability of mice but wont outright kill them. Enjoy your new board and batten siding. "}},{"@type":"Question","name":"What size boards do you use for board and batten siding? Always put safety first When doing any kind of construction, its important to always put safety first by taking the necessary precautions. What is your fastener wood penetration and screw type you're using on top of your 3" mineral wool? I guess if you go with the thin furring strips then you are obligated to have fasteners that go all the way back to the framing. Also labor intensive! -0.118x0.267x2" 6d common nail I have mixed up a formula of baking soda, tsp and washing soda that creates a low ph spray. Its usually recommended that the board and batten is installed onto solid plywood or OSB sheathing. Some homeowners also paint it to further prevent decay. I also give bonus points to people who build structures that look as though they belong in a particular environment. I think it mostly depends on the wood furring species you use + the fastener depth to hold the furring strip in place. This number will be the exact spacing between each batten. Once you know that youre fully prepared, you can begin. A second issue is that the present popularity among designers for black houses is already waning. Board and batten siding is a beautiful option for your homes exterior. I have a lot more 2x6's than I need for framing interior walls. We have plenty of experience when it comes to board and batten siding. With Shou Sugi Ban you are stuck with it for the life of the cladding. After that, make sure your home is ready for the siding installation by removing the rotten boards and securing the loose boards and wood trim. I have no experience with it however so is worth researching yourself. I have used it before when plywood started showing signs of mold or mildew. Once you have it centered and plumb, install the nails on the bottom, top, and also once every 18-24 along the battens length. Are Expensive Building Components Necessary? Horizontal Coravent could also work. Your message has been sent If you do not tackle the problem of moisture no amount of Shou Sugi Ban finish will solve the problem. This means a thicker than 1x furring strip might be needed after all. If that requirement is in fact specific to that exact wall construction, then I don't know why they want that. It sounds like Paula is saying some Hardie techs have suggested using 1.5" thick furring by 4". (All building have some) Just because it has this finish does not mean the builders didnt keep in mind how to avoid moisture AND this did not mean the caretakers of the building just ignored routine inspection and maintenance. Maybe you could cheat with wood vertically on the studs then the plastic horizontally arranged to optimize the fastening purchase. However, for everything else, its a good idea to attach your boards to the studs wherever possible. I think I'll mess around with this on some scraps of fir and cedar, and see how it looks. It adds a certain rustic charm that often resembles a modern farmhouse look. So the installation I was considering would leave the siding more than 3 inches away from the house. Thanks! He suggested using my propane torch to char them. I have vertical 4x10 Hardie Panel on my home (Just as Trevor described). https://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=22797&gclid=CjwKCAiAx_DwBRAfEiwA3vwZYpW3ORRw-ZMScQthEhnrfSKMumOHi4QLFEgZtstZLm_uMh0ajEL5phoC26MQAvD_BwE. Ripping a 2x4 would be a way to spend 1/2 the money on lumber. You could use one of the netted cedar breathers maybe? Boards should be in good condition.
With the help of a friend, you can usually expect to have about 800 ft. of it installed in about a day. No support between studs (or furring on top of studs) is required. I dont know if heat from the burn would affect the glue in the plywood in your case either. Heat mixture outside or in well ventilated place and allow to cool. Now, you can install the drip edge. After that, measure the gap that youd like in between the boards. This fastener is going to be the shortest fastener approved for fastening panel siding products into wood, therefore the furring must be a minimum of 43mm (1 11/16 in) thick to achieve the same values as CCMC", The second sentence contradicts their own fastener specification a couple of pages earlier, which allows for the following into wood studs: The items youll need include: First, prepare the area by following these steps: Follow these steps to properly install the boards: If youre using any top trim, make sure its installed before starting with the battens. If youve read the above sections, then you know how installing board and batten wood siding works, but in this section, were going to provide you with installation tips that will make your job a little bit easier. This added information is inclining me to consider hardie board instead. I'll go into more detail since I happened to look into this issue recently. I don't seem to have taken a picture, but there is a style of siding i'm seeing around my area where strips of hardie panel that are about 12-16 inches wide are mounted horizontally, with flashing between, creating sort of a modern look. The general idea is whatever embed specs the siding calls for when installed directly over studs, you need to provide the same amount of wood for your furring strips. I find their literature much harder to decipher than the Rockwool installation manual, which is amazing (more pictures, less numbers though). So although there is no reason to have one on each side of the foam, there is no danger of trapping moisture. "}},{"@type":"Question","name":"How do I attach batten to the wall? It would take no time at all to nail on some battens every 16", hiding the seams. Malcolm, that is a different look than what the guy I saw did. Once its centered and plumb, nail the top, bottom, and once every 18-24 along the battens length. I will be DIYing this project with another person's help. Thanks. Hmm. I guess Im a little OCD but I feel one building should fit or compliment the other. Just use vertical furring, one on each stud. To learn more about installing board and batten siding, or to schedule an appointment for a consultation, please feel free to give us a call anytime at 215-798-9790 or contact us here. Foam is definitely not more fire resistant than mineral wool, which is virtually fire proof. Paula, I think if it is mold that concerns you then I think there are better ways to approach the problem. For what it's worth, I'm in zone 4c (the BC stuff is applicable). I also get confused by the docs and will re-read but it seems like the 1x4's should be fine. window bucks are nice guides too. Once rain-screens were added to our building code for coastal areas here in BC, lumberyards started stocking pre-cut 1/2" and 3/4'" plywood strips. This often involves using materials native to the area. I'm enthralled by this as I'm setting my brain cells into exploring where to go with siding on a new build. Others are saying that 1x4 strips will flex and result in a non-flat plane for hardie panel. I would comb through the Hardie specs a bit more, there are generally different amount of embed specs for siding when installed with ring shank nails. This calculates how many spaces are on your wall. Then the rain started and I went back to my teaching job and left them there for a month (months?). The house will have doors and windows in a few weeks and then I can run a dehumidifer and dry the place out. Battens should lap at least inch onto the boards on both sides to keep out moisture. I don't know if it's worth using plywood if you have to rip them yourself. It stains the wood which of course doesn't matter on framing or sheathing. Does anyone here have experience with that? 2022 The Taunton Press, Inc. All rights reserved.
-0.091x0.221x1.5" ring shank siding nail.
Said this is sometimes done in Alaska? Start at one corner of your house and make your way around. Divide your total wall length by the approximate space youd like between the battens. What do the vertical joints look like on the 12-16 inch horizontal installations that you're referring to?
I know it nasty to our earth and I feel a little guilty each time I use it. You can either give us a call to schedule an appointment or continue reading our blog to see how to install board and batten siding yourself. So a rainscreen is not considered essential here. Tell us a little bit more details about your project: We have received your request and will contact you during business hours. It's interesting to hear hardie when spoken to said the furring strip needs to be beefed up to 1.5" because it looks like the tables work out in their literature to be 1x4 or 0.75 x 3.5". They show that a 1 1/4" fastener would have 3/4" net penetration into the stud. This bit of permeability allows for a some outward drying. I personally used a solution that works even better than this product but unless you want to go to the trouble of mixing it I wont waste your time going into that. That would still be 4 inch screws just to get furring strips installed. Gather the items youll need before beginning your project. Start at one corner of your house and make your way around. I am definitely sold on the rainscreen idea. Technical Bulletin 19 has a useful worked-out example of this. The photo shows plywood strips set into J-shaped perforated flashing: Here's an article on errors in installing fiber cement siding: I would not go down to 3/4" with rigid mineral wool as the adjustments are too fussy (fine if DIY but gets expensive you are paying for labor).". We just installed new ones last November but thankfully I thought ahead enough for the windows to be installed with windowbucks so hopefully there's much issue for us when we get to this point. I myself am planning a 2" mineral wool install and seems like people recommend different stud wood imbedment requirements. The panels are no fun to lift to a second story. In fact, its one of our favorite types due to its beauty and durability. p.s. Hardie's best practice guide has conflicting information on the matter of fastener length for panels in particular. Rain screens are allowed per the installation instructions. That's the first reference I've seen to using plywood.
This number will be the exact spacing between each batten. Recipe here Use epdm washers to hold rock wool in place before stapping. But no icky hardie dust. Although the material is cost-effective and quite beautiful, its less durable and has been known to have a much shorter lifespan than other materials, such as cedar or James Hardie. Schedule an appointment by contacting us at 215-798-9790. After the top trim is installed, its time to attach the battens. Also, adding 1.75 inch vertical furring strips over all studs, and having such a cavernous seeming rainscreen gap, annoys me. They work well applied directly over sheathing or foam, but i think might be too wavy with mineral wool boards. When I pulled the tarp back I had a nasty surprise. Now that youve finished learning about how to install board and batten siding, its time to get out there and get the job done. WRBs are typically somewhere between 25 and 80 perms. Then I have to purchase the additional lumber for the bulky furring strips, and work out the window details at that added depth.
Unless you are in wild fire area, I would stick to either unfaced EPS or permeable poyiso. Once its secured, install two nails every 18-24 along the boards length. If you haven't bought anything yet, and are doing a DIY (if that may void any Hardie warranty), also look into Nichiha and Allura panels if they are available at your local yards. I have a 1.5" rains screen on 24" spacing. This feature has been temporarily disabled during the beta site preview. I have had huge success just doing my due diligence to dry things out but always use a shotgun approach to the treatment of rot because I take anything degrading my hard won building project very seriously. Once the top trim is installed, cut your battens to the appropriate size. If you have sufficient rigid insulation for condensation control, the permeability of the foam is not an issue. https://kimchiandkraut.net/2019/09/21/shou-sugi-ban-siding/. You must be a magazine subscriber to access this feature. THanks! This is what we have. "Unless you are in wild fire area, I would stick to either unfaced EPS or permeable poyiso." See Step 6 on page 11 in particular. But with the advantage that there'd be less flexing and a flatter surface to attach panels to. Yeah, Mountain Cabin, I'd love to connect and discuss siding details. The longevity of the finish, and even whether you want to touch the boards, relies on sealing the surface and regularly re-coating. Installing Rigid Foam Above Roof Sheathing, Climate Activists React to Dont Look Up. Any particular reason you should use unfaced EPS in this case? I will definitely check out the other products that Chris D mentions--thanks for the tip. Also, check out the Victoria illustrated guide to R22+ effective walls construction guide Well I'd love to avoid fussy, but it is my own labor, not paid. You might even want to watch a few online DIY videos. Get an estimate or schedule your appointment today, Home | How to do it | Board and Batten Siding Installation. I found another way to meet the code requirements for extra energy efficiencyair sealing and a heat recovery ventilatorwhich I am sure I'll be posting questions about shortly. I noticed that they recommend 3/4" x 4" ripped plywood for furring strips. I'm guessing that the requirement for a WRB beneath the furring strips is general and does not presume there's another WRB behind a layer of EPS. "}}]}, PA #PA077391 | NJ #13VH09841400 | DE #2014100818 |. You can spray the product Boracare on your problem and then sprinkle additional boric acid on it. I am also a DIY'er. I look forward to hearing from anyone with experience dealing with adequate furring strips over rockwool mineral board insulation, for hardie board. It seems easier to install than 4x8 sheets. I like the traditional way of nailing 1/3 of way up the board so as to allow for movement in each board.
Some are just better than others. 50% Ethylene Glucol antifreeze Ripping the 2x4s to be about 1.5x1.75 seemed like a good compromise to save lumber. Wow, my neighbor who helps me build sometimes, mentioned this as a possible solution to some moldy boards that are looking ugly.
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