This is what Ive been looking for advice about planer vs jointer. One machine takes up less space (important in my soon to be shop). I would go with the planer first. **Pick-up in Strathcona SW, Cash Only** Corded Black & Decker planer, works well. Craftman 61/8 jointer/planer New still in the box Contact by phone 705 474 8998, 4 inch electric planer, works perfect, rarely used 60 dollars. Im just pickier about the wood at the hardwood store since a planer cant take out bow or twist without shims on MDF. http:.//jszcbf.wordpress.com. So, you have 2.0 needs. I watched a video on You-tube and still didnt understand the differences.

To learn more about this process, check out this video on Milling Lumber.

I would get the jointer first, then after a week youll wish you had gotten the planer first then get a planer. Excellent working condition, long flat Jointer bed and level planing surface. The planer fits 1.5 of the needs. One last thing, it is possible to get two flat sides of a board with a radial arm saw and a true level to the face of the blade fence, by running the board on the cupped side along the fence and sawing the bowed side end to end. The Wood Whisperer abides by word of mouth marketing standards and holds integrity in the highest regard. Switchable 110V or 220V. If you assume Doug has a table saw, his choice of planer or jointer may be different than if he doesnt. But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience. I just bought the LN planes because I am on the slllliiiiiipppppeeeerrrrryyyy slope of hand planes. If you were going to choose between a planer and jointer, which one would come first? 7 plane and hit the High points on the opposite side, basically jointing the side, then get a smoothing plane no. Its a good technique thats easy to learn. Once you learn the little tricks about sharpening the blade you will spend much less on sandpaper so the cost in the long run is the same or cheaper.

I do most of my stock prep with hand planes.

These days you can rip a pretty nice joint with a handheld saw and a straight edge and fix it clean with a router or a hand-plane. I have to say that I use the jointer more then my planer.so that is why I would buy the jointer first. 6 inch heavy duty PLANER with Rolling stand. And wouldnt we all like to have a jointer with 12 capacity!!! There are so many different jigs for a budget shop it is ridiculous! That will save mr a k lot od wood also the problem with just the planer is that it pushes the wood down flat while planing and springs back up after through the planer, some time the wood is not usable. Does the 3 in difference on the planer make that much difference because either way the cost of purchase [new] is about the same. This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. Again, I think we can all agree that its really the combination of the jointer and planer that makes the magic happen. I can select flat boards, but I dont want to wear out a sander. Designed and developed by Underscorefunk Design. Excellent working condition rarely used.

Straighten the first edge with a hand plane.

Then you can use the now true edge to run along the jointers fence to plane the other side of the board so that you can plane in the correct grain direction. Those that do create unbelievable work but they are far and few between. Not for bulk production lines, of course. I applaud your comment so much so that I am posting this, and I NEVER comment on anything.

Well, its been 7 years since Marcs original post. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Analytics". But if you are serious about woodworking, and think this will be a lifetime hobby, take a look at one of these

The major drawback is that a router sled can take a very long time to plane a panel down to your desired thickness, especially if you have to make multiple passes or its a really large panel (or both!). The cookie is set by GDPR cookie consent to record the user consent for the cookies in the category "Functional". The jointer makes wood flat, and the planer makes wood parallel (and thinner).

It was made to last. If youre on a budget ALWAYS get hand tools first. But if you only have money or space for 1 tool get the planer. CHAINSAW CHAIN AND LOG WIZARD ATTACHMENT, Scorpion 16 inch Jointer/Planer Combo Machine, KING CANADA Magnetic & Micro Adjustment Knife Jig Kit No. Other uncategorized cookies are those that are being analyzed and have not been classified into a category as yet. Dwade. Currently 4 inch Rockwell/Beaver jointer on metal stand with 3/4 hp motor. Try all day but it just wont happen, you will go through a lot more wood trying to use a power planer first. Guys, Im still very confused.

But what if you dont want to use pre-milled stock and your boards are rough. Doug. I would first go with the jointer. Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. I have not tried this, but you might hot-glue the board onto a rider board, with wedges to keep it from rocking. I would have to say the jointer first also because you need true edges to join pieces together. All pictures have the retail price listed in them, Im selling them all at 25% off. 6 Rockwell/Beaver Jointer Three blade cutter head with new $50 set of knives that have only been sharpened once. You can often get two quality 10-year-old tools for the price of one new one. Workarounds for dimensioning lumber that I used while I had a planer but not a jointer: Flatten one face with hand plane, belt sander, or whatever it takes, and check your progress with a straightedge.

Lightly used.

Transpower Jointer 8" This is a heavy duty machine in excellent working condition. Hi Marc, what about using a jointer and table saw to get one face and both edges done, then use a router sled to bring it to final thickness. (continued from above)

Purchase the planer first, youll be happier. - Aluminum fence can easily move and quick lock at 90 & Delta planer, extra set of blades, heavy duty stand with wheels, 4" dust hook up Delta jointer, newer blades, heavy duty stand with wheels, 4" dust hook up Dewalt 3pcs router, standard, plunge, d Old piece of cast iron, connects with belts very heavy, I can throw in a motor for an extra 20bucks, SKU: 60719 Model: KRS-102 Condition: New Can be used with any sander, planer or jointer Height adjustable from 27" to 44" Folds flat for storage Lenmark Industries Ltd 27576 51a Ave Langley, British Columbia Canada V4W4A9 Tel: 604.449.1880 www.lenmark.com. In my opinion, you should purchase the planer first.

You might also consider a no.5 jack plane, it is a more aggresive cutter than a no. That first side you surface jointed or planed should have been the the side that rides the plane on the ends, not on the center. Doing it often will make you fit as well. Know of any worthwhile reviews of these products (Grizzly makes one, too)?

Even if you do go with power tools they will still not give you a finished surface that is ready for the finish of your choice. I have set aside some money for this project, so while I know the unit is expensive, it does seem to be good solution to the problem (space and 12 inch capacity) and from a quality company. Good solid machine running on 575v at 3 phase. I get all my would from as saw mill. (pick up only), WE NOW CARRY CANNON BARS!!! My portable planer is a 20 YO Ryobi 10 that does all the small work, I love it. But he sure appreciates the end products. The planer/jointer is just that, a planer AND a jointer. Then I fired it up. There are indeed some occasions when we plane things that are way wider than the capacity of our jointers. For example, a dip in the middle is fine, because its not going to affect how the board goes through. Easy change over, easy operation. All rights reserved. Those that learn a skill using the manual method before progressing to the automatic method will maintain a quality of skill and craftsmanship that far outshines those who jump straight to the automatic method since they will more fully understand the full process. Could always pony up for some good S4S at a reputable mill, but that becomes expensive in the long run depending on workload. The first thing I purchased was a Ryobi 12 planer ( or more commonly known as a thicknesser here in Australia). I would certainly like to hear more about the Jet combination machine.

A good bedrock design #4 plane will set you back hundreds of dollars, as an example. Check out this article:

The machine is called a jointer. As far as a jointer, I would go out to an antique store or auction or ebay and buy a #7 jointer plane. Industrial Jointer/Planer w/ Spiral Cutterhead No. It does not store any personal data.

Let it dry for a year then plane it. But the advantages of the jointer (can flatten one face dead flatthis dependent on how wide the jointer is), it can make perfect straight edges for gluing-jigs for planers cannot give the consistency that jointers do for edges, you control what gets cut on the jointer (pressure, where you start the feed-planer takes that control away), and finally the jointer allows the ease of producing 90 degree corners to the flat face or even other angles for bevelling-very handy. Ive been happy with the results so far. Once thats done, pry it off and plane the other face. Table saw to get the parallel edge then crosscut to length. Used jointer- $150-#$300 usually for a decent 6.

Example: table top This method is too slow unless youre doing just a couple of boards. i would also choose a planer first, you can always make a sled or something to go through your planer and get a board perfectly flat. We keep a good inventory of spiral cutterheads for the most popular jointers, planers from SCM, Felder, *** Call or Text 7057344841, Email can't be replied to *** Makita 2030 Planer + Jointer, 2 HP, 220 Volts, 5' Bed Needs new Planer rollers. Machinists typically have no idea about woodworking, only using a machine. Priced the same as our regular 3/8 chain. But I should have purchased the planer first. If I was to offer any recommendation, its to get both together. Google, Google Play, YouTube and other marks are trademarks of Google Inc. KPF300A Rojek 12" sliding table saw with scoring blade and shaper 3500.00 msp415 16"planer /jointer 2500.00 pf-31 powermatic auto feed 800.00. $5000 best woodworking tools in the world In the end, you can have 4 flat slides but dont have any guarantee that the sides would be parallel to each other???

I think that that video definitely helped and yes, it was pretty much what Id thought.

Just expect them to take a bit longer to finish. Ill explain why with a couple of videos that will hopefully justify my decision. If you purchase pre-milled stock youll be able to make the boards any thickness you want.

Of course these techniques take more time so i would def. Cheap power tools are destined for the bin, you could save yourself the disappointment, stress and frustration from trying to use them by cutting out the middleman and just throw the money away. Your opinion is no more right than his is. For one thing, you can pick up a perfectly usable 13 portable planer for well under $500 so its less expensive than the smallest jointer Id consider buying which is an 8 (mine is a factory reconditioned DJ-20 and was around $1,400). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5tdS5DEImc But thats just my opinion. But thicknessing boards by hand is a hella lot more work than flattening one side. Definitely get the planer first. To further drive your point home for anyone who might read these, I will add that in woodshop class they teach you hand tools first then the power tools second! Eventually youll have both the planer and the jointer and 4-square boards will be just minutes away. Once the boards are lined up, this process is pretty quick.

7, can help determining the amount of actual planing you have to do on the bowed side. Keep in mind though that if you find a killer deal on craigslist etc for a good jointer or planer, its worth just jumping and youll use both tools. I agree with Marc here, planer first. The edge jointing can be done several ways, but a router table would be my first choice (something else that you can build). For the board I had a twist in (it was too nice to pass up) the twist was abrupt so i crosscut close then did a kerf joint and the grain was luckily nearly invisible. If you need any help with rehabing an old plane or getting started, let me know, Ill help you all I can. The jointer is used to flatten one face and square up one edge and the planer is then used to make the second face flat and parallel to the first. Downside is that its hard to get this to work with a narrow board, and you have to fiddle around with the straightedge. Has minor use in a hobby shop building furniture and is in perfect condition. Im thinking its a jointer that just also happens to have a wide-enough blade so that you can flatten the wide side of a board too.

You can try, but you cant get the two faces in plane with each other. The result is a dead perfect match assuming you have a glue-edge quality blade. This site uses affiliate links. My only problem now is what to do with the nearly 4 bags of walnut and maple wood chips I generated in an afternoon!

I am purchasing a cnc and was wondering which would be better a jointer or planer I would like to glue pieces together to make approximately 20 in wide stock to mill u feel that as long as one side is flat the thickness isnt as important it would be milled its a different question but just wondering what feed back I could get, I bought a combi Sedgwick planer/thicknesser

:-), This wasnt an easy financial decision to make, but after thinking about it for years I finally bit the bullet and got what Ive always wanted.

And I have to say, using my hand planes is a kind of meditation almost for me. Whereas I agree on the value of good hand tools (and really undrestanding how to use them), Id disagree with you on the good + cheap part.

Everyone is saying something else. Freshly sharpened blades, 6 wide x 5ft longer jointer bed, 12 wide planer. If I was working at a leisurely pace and was retired or just doing it for the love of working with hand tools, Id feel differently, but the guys I respect like Phil Lowe, Scott Philips, etc all agree that the power tools remove the grunt work so that they can spend more time doing the work by hand that will show.

This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. 4 blade cutter head.

Im still trying to get to my first routing table and apparently it will cost as much as the table for a device just to raise or lower the router properly. jointer Until then, the planer will provide a lot of additional functionality that can make a real difference in your productivity. The lumber supplier up the street for me sells all his stuff rough planed already so its even simpler to plane it accuratly yourself (although his prices reflect the included machining). Bottom line, it comes down to what you have available to you (materials, money, time, etc.) Then find a no.

I went with the planer first because of the money. I was skip planing (autocorrect got me) BRAVO!!! Best alternative: Just give up and get a jointer to go with the planer. The reference surface for this tool is below the cutter head; if you run a board through that is not flat, the twist or bow cannot be removed.

You can always rip boards on the table saw, but getting then down to a uniform thickness without access to a planer is next to impossible. No one says you have to. You can simply buy a hand plane, learn how to use it, and put in the work. If you have not given hand planes a shot, try it, youll love it. Kill 2 birds with 1 stone and a great space saver into the bargain.

Like most people have said planar first, jointer second. and all that without using any sort of infeed/outfeed table thats how good the planer is. Where I live, you cant swing a dead cat without hitting a cheap used 6 jointer, but planers are a little less common and quite a bit more expensive. I just bought a jet jpp-12. You eventually need to do both (make it flat and parallel) but there are ways to accomplish or work around one without the other. A planer on the other hand was born for the task of thicknessing. If I were purchasing my tools for the first time, Id find it much more useful to own a planer first.

It is most definitely called a jointer.

I know this is an old topic, but important none the less!

I doubt if Id have got as good value for money from a jointer (planers down here :) ). If you learned to drive in a car with an automatic transmission, then your awareness and connection with the car is nowhere near that of someone who had to manage the clutch and gearing themselves.

So the cupped side, not the bowed side. These cookies ensure basic functionalities and security features of the website, anonymously.

My big planer is a 30 YO Rockwell 24. If I were in your shoes, I would buy a planer first. I am not preeching, sorry if i sound that way folks.

Rigid makes a decent planer that includes the stand and 2 sets of blades. I use a lot of reclaimed timber and the planer (we call them thicknessers down here) has paid for itself dozens of times over. Lumber will always move around, so unless you dimension it in your workshop and assemble it in your workshop, its going to bend/warp/fart in your general direction. For anyone in my situation I would definitely suggest getting a jointer first, planer second.

The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Performance". I am in a similar situation as Steve. My latest purchase/investment and for the best of both worlds, and to also save on machine space, Ive bought a Combination planer and Jointer, which is 2 machines in 1 ! Learn basic hand tool skills with the planes and get some appreciation for woodworking. But compared to buying two tools at once, those hoops seem reasonable. And typically much faster, more efficiently and MORE ACCURATELY. For a new wood worker always go power and learn how to use hand tools not the other way around. and what your priorities are. I would opt for the planer first and build a sled for it. Copyright 2006-2022 The Wood Whisperer Inc. The views and opinions expressed on this blog are purely our own. Instead of a jointer I just have a very nice, sharp blade on my small Delta TS. Most lumber suppliers will put a straight edge on a board for you for free when you buy it, and if you pick through the pile for the flatest lumber you can plane to thickness without face jointing. Selling a Black And Decker 3 5/8" Planer. In a word Awesome. Learn to use your hand tools and you will increase your proficiency with power tools. :). This is fine if Im planing something narrower than 3 or 4. I never even though about having flat edges but your board could be a wedge so that was a great helpful hint to simply table saw the opposite edge of the edge you just jointed. Planer and 12 inch jointer all in one. Im facing the same decision (planer or jointer).

In several more words game changer. Just has one electrical taped spot on cord otherwise is in great condition and works excellent. Supliment that with a jointer hand plane and a smoother hand plane. Why, here is the why: making sleds for the planer is hard, they are NEVER true, can NEVER make a twisted board truely parallel. But the jointer is really under rated these days!

Also it seems that wide boards are a bad idea as one side of the planer seems to take off a half millimeter more than one side. I rip one edge and its as clean and straight as a jointer could ever be.

I had the same dilemna when I started out (not long ago) fortunately my wife let me buy both at the same time (a 12 1/2 Dewalt planer and the Delta 6 benchtop planer (not so happy with)) so my problem was solved. Though if you have the means and the space, youll probably want to add the jointer to the setup later on. I had a DW735 with a Byrd Shelix cutter head that Id sold on CL to help fund the purchase of the JJP12-HH that DeWalt sounded like a jet taking off. Since I bought my LN #7 and LN #71/2 my jointer gets very little action.

So glad that you have such a great woodworking community in your country posting videos and all sort of solutions. The cookies is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Necessary".

( tax refund helped! Your comment was riddled with errors, both grammatical and spelling. A simple router jig or planner sled jig will give you the first smooth face so that your planner can parallel off of it to create your second flat and smooth surface. Then run that true flat side against the jointers fence and joint/plane the side. Can someone please provide some background info on the combo planer/jointer? A large 100+ inch track is all you need.

If you dont, Id listen to the advise above and build a jointing sled for your planer.

Makita 2030 Jointer planer 110V. The truth is you can do a pretty vague flattening job with side A and still end up with a flat board when you are done.

Find places like Rosewood, take a course from a fantastic teacher who knows hand tools thoroughly, and buy some good ones youll be amazed at the things you can do and how beautiful they en up being. Wow you shop at Big (Orange) Box and youre still willing to assert that surfaced lumber is close to flat?!. Videos on YouTube can be extremely handy for helping you see what exactly can be done with each tool. Enjoy your woodworking.

I think our first step should be to ask Doug for an inventory of his equipment and find out what his interests are in terms of woodworking in the future.

12in planer/jointer combo [ie., Grizzly G0633, Jet JJP-12, Rojec MSP310M] or 15in planer and 6in/8in joiner. I have a 6 jointer and still have to use this method on larger pieces of stock that wont fit on the jointer. The alternative to a jointer is a jack plane followed by a jointer plane.

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With the planer, I can get nice parallel flat faces and mill the board to the desired thickness.



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